I decided the next best solution would be to provide a point in each circuit where the failure of the protected device would blow a fuse before burning the wiring. This is used for general wiring like side and tail lamps. Hope this helps for a general routing, along with the gallery pics it should make it easier to understand. I will describe the wires and the connection locations in the car. Bobstf I had a wiring loom made to original specification colours and woven braids earlier this year. This includes the wiper wire, coil and fuel pump.
There's no way on earth that I can always be right so I'll have to warn you ahead of time that these are just my opinions and observations. Like 4 is blue, and 17 is green, 9 is white. If you would do that for me. The wires mostly fall right to position when running it along the chassis. Then throw into this mix the fact that the earlier cars up to late 40s ish are braided with 4 strand thick cotton as opposed to the later cars which have 6 strand cotton braiding.
Let's look at the connection points I used for my fuse installation. This wire connects to fuel warning lamp. So I really need to fix the turn signals. The carrying capacity is very low, yet it is protected by a 35 amp fuse. The Live is active now. I made about 10 copies each.
Before attempting any of the following, seek the advice of a trained professional. I searched various auto parts stores and found a modular fuse block that could be expanded in multiples of 4. Heat shrink tubing can be applied. You can test your connections using 12 volts but not smoke your wires if something shorts. The flasher normally connects to the main harness via a solid green wire with a bullet connector. I verified the wiring into all the relevant turn signal.
It works like a maypole, with the bobbins going around and under over each other, just like dancers round a maypole. Note: on cars with a dash mounted dip switch, the connection could be made at the 2-way connectors near the dip switch. It connects to the main harness with bullet and 2-way connectors. Mainly these will be the connections between the main loom and the under dash loom. Since I had done one diagram, I also thought what the heck and I did the other two. Once all are completed then we start at the thickest end usually dash end and braid down the main trunk.
Most of the wiring threads have leaned toward installing wiring in 'naked' cars. © 1999 - 2019 by Christopher C. Find the best deals for used fiberfab mg td wiring. By the way, I also concluded that the color diagram I purchased on the web wasn't exactly accurate and several times I found myself refering back to the diagram in the Workshop Manual to make sure that I was connecting the wiring correctly. It is also a good idea to make a fuse key and place is next to the fuse panel. I followed each circuit and found nearly all had a connection behind the dash. What do you have that is cheap and a lot of.
Since we have been having ongoing problems with our server, I resent the reply on our regular server, plus on a secondary server we use, so you may receiver the reply twice - just a heads up. Like color coding only more precise. I also went the extra yardage and wrapped my loom with tape where it went behind the pedal box because you will never get all that grime out. . The low beam wires are blue with a red stripe.
British fuses are rated for the failing current instead of the carrying current of American fuses. Have fun getting it thru the grommet on the firewall. Any help, guidence, or help directing me to a source for the abc's of where to start 1. The one above looks pretty good. Designed to look like a 1952 mg td, this fiberfab replica has vintage british looks with a reliable. I have the original harness - in a bucket.