You can use tiny hose clamps to tighten it on, but I suggest using zip ties instead. As you can see, you'll still need to tap into a vacuum line for a boost source. Pull it like in the picture and once it starts to pop out wedge your fingers in the crack and gently pry it off. Reaching into the side panel that you removed, you can pull out the harness that you disconnected from the dimmer switch. The only tool I'd recommend buying if you don't have it is a wire stripper, which is completely optional. . Feed the wire through the steering column, like you did with the positive wire, and pull it through near the pedals.
I don't really want to use these funktions and I don't want anymore drain on the battery with the car off. I'm not sure if the blue wire is accessory power or not. Gauges Available Subscribe to keep up with the build Thanks for watching, please like, share and subscribe Instagram- MarkelKnight Website- markelknight. I just wired up mine today. If anyone needs an immdiate question answered just pm me! Guys I know I never wrote up a thing for this but I am doing a write up for it tomorrow! You should be able to work the switch out enough to reach the wire harness clipped into the back.
Then, put the key in and to the accessory position and recheck the wire. At the bottom of your knee panels beneath the steering wheel, there will be 3 Torx screws, I believe size 20 or 25. This bolt is a great place for the negative wire. I just had to get everything hooked up and attached to pass emissions. This post supplies 12 volts of power whenever the car is turned on. I can't think of any logical use for them besides blinking alarm lights, unless maybe you want to set up surveillance equipment in your car.
Once it is released, wiggle it out as much as you can. Just make sure the gauge you choose allows you to change the light so you're not stuck with a lime-green light that doesn't match anything in your car. It is placed in there the same as the fuse door, clips around the front and sides and slides out in the back. Now pull directly out on the panel surrounding the fuses. Push your boost hose through until you can reach it under your pedals; once you can, grab it, route it up through the steering column trim, and attach it to your boost gauge. Depending on the brand of the boost gauge you may or may not have to use the supplied clip; some boost gauges are a little fatter and secure themselves tightly in the pod.
These gauges have peak recall and warning setting and I am thinking that that's the reason it needs constant 12V power, right? Here is the installation instructions for an Autometer electric boost gauge. Before you crimp the other side on, it helps to fold over the wire to make it a little thicker. Only standard tools are needed. First, check the wire with the key out of the ignition with a multimeter, it should read 0v. This is a great mod for any turbo car. Connecting the ignition wire to another wire and running it to the 75x post will allow the stereo to work properly when the car is turned on and off. I might also recommend you remove the negative battery cable from the battery, so you do not blow out any fuses or shock yourself while cutting wires, but I'm not your mother, so make that decision on your own.
I figure it can't hurt to go over this bolt post circled in green in the picture. To provide a better website experience, axleaddict. A multimeter can tell you though. Remove those three screws, and the plastic panel above the pedals can now be removed. I will also cover the boost hose installation briefly, but that information can be widely found on the wonderful world wide web! It may sound trashy, but if you use black you can't see them, and they seal a lot better than small hose clamps.
I would also ask the same question, but it really doesn't matter. Cut the grey wire with the blue stripe about two inches down from the harness, and strip the ends of both sides. Also, a boost hose was already installed on this car by the previous owner, but I will show what vacuum tube to tap into for your gauge; it is a simple part of the installation. The gauge light will turn on and off with your dash lights and brighten or darken with the dimmer switch. Optional For the negative wire, you can go through the same process to attach it to the brown wire on the harness. It will look somewhat like bicycle-pump hosing.
Hopefully I've explained it enough for you to try and replicate if you are interested. If the same wire reads 12v, you know you found the correct wire. I like the cars, the cars that go boom! The guage stays on even with the key out and the lights off. My guess is Anthony is asking why you'd go from a mechanical to electric boost gauge. Electrical problems are no fun, it's never worth it to guess you have the right wire by color, just some advice I've picked up from previous experiences.